Recipes for this Story

Orange-Ginger Apple Cider [1]
Broiled Goat Cheese Crostini with Minted Grapes [2]
Honey-Chile Salmon [3]
Warm Upside Down Apple Spice Cake [4]

When Deborah Szekely opened the legendary Golden Door spa in 1959, she enticed visitors to rejuvenate with weeklong getaways in a serene retreat. Although set in Escondido, California, it is styled as a traditional Japanese village and dedicated to exercise and well-being, with doses of massage, facials, and mental relaxation. She also created a revolutionary movement for health-conscious eating. It was delicious enough to be called "cuisine"--spa cuisine.

Fifty-one years later, the golden portals still swing open to welcome guests to a discreet week of luxurious renewal. The meals that keep the energy flowing and the pounds evaporating result from the skills of the spa's new executive chef, Kayla Roche.

Kayla took over this coveted role in April, after starting as a line cook in 2007 and becoming the sous chef in 2008. At 25, she is the first woman and the youngest chef to hold the executive chef position. She is also the standard-bearer for a culinary style that's respected for nourishing the body, the mind, and the spirit.

Fortunately, there's a guiding hand at the Golden Door. At 88, Deborah still plays an active role in overseeing the spa, including a weekly lecture for guests on subjects ranging from inner beauty ("beauty is an inside feeling and an opening to the spirit") to aging ("I really believe the process of aging is a choice. I don't have time to be old").

It takes a strong leader to manage a kitchen in operation three meals a day, seven days a week, and Kayla won her job not only for her culinary talent but for her management skills and positive attitude. She finds her relationship with Deborah an inspiration. "Seeing what Deborah accomplished as a young woman puts my own ambition in perspective," she says. "You have to give it time and let things fall as they would naturally."

Cooking with a Zen attitude has other lessons. "When I was a line cook, Deborah would often offer constructive criticism," Kayla explains. "While this was sometimes hard to hear, I learned to take a step back and look at my cooking without ownership."

Many guests returning to the Golden Door look forward to favorite dishes. Kayla maintains a roster of classic recipes, updating some, keeping some originals, and adding her own preparations that effortlessly combine diverse cuisines.

For example, a rosemary-scented Orange-Ginger Apple Cider warms up a contemplative moment spent in a Japanese-inspired garden or resuscitates guests after an ambitious morning hike. It also wakes up the senses with a subtle combination of flavors, a talent Deborah admires in Kayla's cooking.

"Kayla is a sensitive cook," she comments. "She's especially good with spices, and her presentation is gorgeous." That's high praise coming from the boss--especially when the boss believes that food has a higher purpose.

"Food is connected with joy," Deborah insists. "I'm against counting calories. That's like counting kisses--it gets in the way of love! All it takes is eating 20 percent less."

Without question, dinner at The Golden Door is a joy. Seasonality, as well as taste and nutrition, plays a role; beyond the guest quarters there are expansive organic gardens and orchards. Guests gather when an early Edo-period temple bell rings at 6:15 p.m., a signal the day's activities are over and a leisurely evening is beginning that could include a cooking class or Deborah's weekly conversation.

A typical fall dinner starts with Goat Cheese Crostini with Minted Grapes, a delightful turn on bruschetta. The grapes are savory--tossed with shallots, balsamic vinegar, and mint.

For the main course, a seared salmon fillet with a sweet-hot honey-and-chile glaze sits atop lightly dressed arugula and a garlicky mash of spiced white beans and carrots. This flavorful combination weighs in big on taste but light in calories (just 339) due to searing the fish in grapeseed oil.

Kayla reworked one of her mother's favorite dessert recipes so the small Upside-Down Apple Spice Cakes with a side of nonfat vanilla frozen yogurt satisfy the sweet tooth and still keep the meal in line nutritionally.

"The whole approach to food has changed since we opened the Golden Door," Deborah says. "We have more courage. Habits limit you, but not resilience and flexibility. I want people to share my curiosity about food."

Kayla follows suit. "I've inherited so much in this position," she says. "We want guests to maintain their good eating habits. I do my best to honor Deborah's vision. Seeing what she has done gives me hope I can do the same."

Photography: Luca Travato

Golden Door Spa founder Deborah Szekely and executive chef Kayla Roche. The chef's sweet offerings of the spa kitchen include Upside-Down Apple Spice Cakes sprinkled with crystallized ginger.

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Kayla greets dinner guests dressed in Golden Door's traditional yukatas (casual kimonas).

Recipes begin here. [1]

Technique: Healthful Seared Salmon

1. Use a nonstick pan and low-fat grapeseed oil for more healthful cooking. Place fish skin side up in hot oil to sear.

Recipes begin here. [1]

Technique: Healthful Seared Salmon

2. Cook the fish 2 to 3 minutes or until golden brown. Using a fish turner, carefully lift fish to check for doneness.

Recipes begin here. [1]

Technique: Healthful Seared Salmon

3. Turn fish over with fish turner before transferring to baking sheet for glazing and baking.

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Kayla Roche enjoys a rare relaxing moment.

Recipes begin here. [1]

Getting There

The Golden Door in Escondido, California, hosts just 40 guests per weeklong session. Sessions run Sunday through Sunday and include individually designed exercise programs, daily massage, beauty consultations, and meals. Visit the Web site at goldendoor.com [26] or phone 800/424-0777.

Recipes begin here. [1]

Orange-Ginger Apple Cider

• 6 cups unsweetened filtered apple juice
• 4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
• 4 sprigs rosemary
• 3 slices orange
• Orange slices and rosemary sprigs

In medium saucepan combine apple juice, ginger, 4 sprigs rosemary and 3 orange slices. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer 30 minutes.

Strain juice through fine mesh strainer; discard solids. Divide among six mugs; garnish with orange slices and rosemary. Makes 6 servings.

Broiled Goat Cheese Crostini with Minted Grapes

• 12 (1/4 inch thick) diagonally sliced whole grain baguette
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons minced garlic
• Salt and ground black pepper
• 4 ounces goat cheese (chevre) or other soft, spreadable goat cheese
• 1 teaspoon olive oil
• 2 teaspoons minced shallot
• 1-1/2 cups red seedless grapes, quartered
• 3 tablespoons green onion, minced
• 1-1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange bread slices on baking sheet. Combine 2 tablespoons olive oil and the garlic; brush on bread. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake 12 minutes or until bread is lightly golden.

Remove toasted bread slices from oven and change oven setting to broil. Spread goat cheese evenly over each crostini and broil 4 to 5 inches from heat 1 to 2 minutes or until goat cheese is melted.

In small skillet, heat 1 teaspoon olive oil over low heat. Add minced shallot and cook until golden brown. Transfer shallot to medium mixing bowl. Add grapes, green onion, mint, and balsamic vinegar. Toss to combine.

Spoon heaping tablespoon of grape mixture over each crostini and serve. Makes 6 servings (12 crostini).

Honey-Chile Salmon

• 1 cup dried white beans
• 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 stalk celery, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/4 of a yellow onion, cut in half
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 cup peeled garlic cloves
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/2 of a lemon, juiced
• 1/2 tablespoon sherry vinegar
• 6 (4-ounce) wild salmon fillets
• Salt and ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup Dijon-style mustard
• 1/4 cup organic honey
• 1/2 tablespoon chili powder
• Grapeseed oil
• 2 cups baby arugula
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 of a lemon, juiced
• Crushed flax seed (optional)

Rinse beans in cold water. Place beans in large bowl; cover with cold water by about 2 inches. Let beans stand overnight, then rinse and drain beans.

Place drained beans, carrots, celery, onion and bay leaves in large pot. Cover beans by about 3 inches with water. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until bean are tender. Drain liquid from pot, reserving liquid. Remove and discard bay leaves. Mash bean mixture with potato masher or fork.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F. Toss garlic cloves with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Wrap in foil and roast until golden brown and soft, about 25 minutes. When garlic is cooled, mash with fork to form garlic puree.

Season bean mixture with salt, pepper, juice of half a lemon, sherry vinegar and 1 to 2 tablespoons of the roasted garlic puree. If necessary, add enough reserved bean liquid to reach desired consistency.

Season salmon with salt and pepper. In small bowl stir together mustard, honey, and chili powder; set aside. Lightly coat bottom of very large nonstick skillet with grapeseed oil. Heat pan over medium-high heat. Add salmon fillets, skin side up, to hot skillet and cook 2 to 3 minutes or until golden brown (sear only flesh side down). Transfer fillets to baking sheet, seared side up. Brush honey glaze evenly over each fillet. Bake in preheated oven about 5 minutes or until salmon flakes easily with fork.

Meanwhile, in medium bowl toss together arugula, olive oil, and juice of half a lemon. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper. To serve, spoon bean mixture onto plates. Top with arugula and place salmon fillet on top. Sprinkle with crushed flax seed, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

Warm Upside Down Apple Spice Cake

• Nonstick cooking spray
• 1 teaspoon organic cane sugar
• 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into thin wedges
• 2 Fuji apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 egg
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup organic cane sugar
• 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
• 1/4 cup grapeseed oil
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 small Granny Smith, cored and sliced
• 1 teaspoon grapeseed oil
• 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped crystallized ginger
• Fresh mint sprigs
• Vanilla frozen yogurt

Preheat oven to 350°F. Coat eight 4-ounce ramekins or 6-ounce custard cups with nonstick spray. Sprinkle bottom of each cup with 1/8 teaspoon sugar. Arrange 4 to 6 slices of Granny Smith apple in bottom of each, overlapping as necessary. Arrange cups in shallow baking pan; set aside.

In large bowl stir together diced Fuji apples and egg. Add flour, 1/2 cup sugar, walnuts, oil, cinnamon, and baking soda; stir until all is moistened (batter will be very stiff). Spoon batter into prepared ramekins, filling almost full.

Bake in preheated oven about 20 minutes or until knife inserted near center of each comes out clean. Cool in ramekins 5 minutes. Invert onto dessert plates.

In medium skillet cook second Granny Smith apple slices in 1 teaspoon hot grapeseed oil over medium-high heat until apples are golden brown (about 3 to 5 minutes). Top cakes with apple slices. Sprinkle with crystallized ginger and fresh mint sprigs. Serve with vanilla frozen yogurt. Makes 8 servings.