Rosa Mexicano

Come along for a culinary adventure in Mexico right in the heart of Manhattan. Rosa Mexicano, a 24-year-old landmark in New York’s pantheon of groundbreaking restaurants, explores the nuances of our southern neighbor’s cuisine with a yearlong series of demonstration classes, Flavors of Mexico. Every fall the focus is on a single ingredient—chocolate.

Photography: Joe Standart and Peter Krumhardt

Recipes are at the end of this story.

In the chocolate class, Chef Susana Trilling, Rosa Mexicano’s culinary adviser and proprietor of Seasons of My Heart cooking school in Oaxaca, Mexico, teaches her students recipes that use chocolate in its most extraordinary applications: soups, sides, sauces. By the way, there’s dessert as well. Does it get any tastier than this?

It’s chocolate’s seductive qualities that are at work here. Combined with the brazen heat of chipotle pepper, the earthy pungency of porcini mushrooms, or the silkiness of cream and butter, Mexican chocolate is a bit sultry—elusive and enticing. This lullaby of Broadway has a sensuous salsa beat.

Flavors of Mexico classes are held about every two months, led by Chef Susana or the executive chefs of Rosa Mexicano. The session begins with a buffet breakfast, followed by a cooking demonstration and a three-course luncheon featuring dishes taught earlier that day. The following month, selections on the restaurant’s menu highlight the class’s focus or special ingredient. "The series is like going to the movies," says Howard Greenstone, chief operating officer of the Rosa Mexicano restaurants. "You leave reality at the door and step into a Mexican cocina in your mind. This ‘food of the earth’ is ancient and flavorful, complex and simple all at once. That’s what people experience."

Once everyone has been fortified with breakfast, Chef Susana, assisted by Joe Quintana, executive chef at Rosa Mexicano Lincoln Center, starts class by explaining the qualities of Mexican chocolate. "It has an unexpected grainy texture," she says. "You experience the chocolate on three levels: the front taste on the tip of the tongue, the lingering taste, and the aroma. There’s an earthiness and a bit of almond and spice, which is why it combines so well with savory dishes."

First is Crema de Calabaza (butternut squash or pumpkin soup) with Chocolate-Chipotle Croutons. This creamy soup has a delicate hint of orange and cinnamon. The soup is poured over toasted croutons coated with ground chipotle chili pepper and grated chocolate. Sweet heat, indeed!

Susana’s trick for coaxing subtle flavor into the soup is to roast the vegetables crowded into a small pan rather than spread out on a baking sheet. "This allows the flavors to mingle better while cooking," she explains.

Beef tenderloin is the centerpiece of the cooking demonstration. Chef Susana combines red wine, chocolate, dried porcini mushrooms, and the tiny red chile de arbol (which packs a hot little punch for something so diminutive) into a dark, robust sauce to blanket the tenderloin. Using the "mushroom water" (in which the treasured woodsy-scented porcinis have soaked) adds another level of subtle flavor to the sauce.

Guest Lauren Santiago savors the aroma of Mexican chocolate.

"Chocolate is part of everyday life in Mexico," Chef Susana tells the class. "But, of course, we especially love it in dessert when we combine it with fresh fruits." In this case, two handmade empanadas—one with a rum-laced pineapple-raisin filling and the other with a velvety chocolate ganache—provide a sweet ending to the class.

"Our dishes are truly authentic to Mexico," says Chef Susana. "It’s obvious from the chefs’ enthusiasm they are teaching the food they love to eat. The excitement of sharing makes it like home—with New York style."

Crema de Calabaza (Butternut Squash Soup) with Chocolate-Chipotle Croutons

• 1/2 of a poblano chili, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
• 1 orange
• 1 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut in 1-inch cubes
• 1 pound white onions, peeled, and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1-1/2 inches Mexican stick cinnamon or other stick cinnamon, broken
• 2 tablespoons grated piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar) or packed brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 whole allspice
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1 sprig fresh thyme
• 2 cups vegetable stock or broth
• 1 cup milk
• 1/8 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
• Kosher salt (optional)
• 1 Recipe Chocolate-Chipotle Croutons
•  Grated Oaxacan or other Mexican chocolate

Preheat oven to 425°F. Place pepper half, cut side down, on foil-lined baking sheet. Roast 20 to 25 minutes or until skin is blistered. Bring foil up around pepper. Let stand 15 minutes. Loosen edges of the skin with a sharp knife; gently pull off skin and discard. Set pepper aside. Reduce oven temperature to 325°.

With vegetable peeler, remove orange peel from half of orange in large strips; squeeze 1/4 cup juice from orange and reserve. In mixing bowl combine orange peel, orange juice, squash, onion, garlic, cinnamon, piloncillo, olive oil, allspice, 1 tablespoon salt, peppercorns and thyme. Place in small roasting pan. Roast, uncovered, 50 to 60 minutes or until squash is tender, stirring twice. Cool slightly; discard orange peel, thyme stem, and cinnamon, if desired.

In blender combine squash mixture, vegetable stock, and roasted poblano; cover; blend until almost smooth. Transfer to large saucepan; add milk. Cook and stir until heated through. Add nutmeg and additional kosher salt, if needed.

To serve, top with croutons and grated chocolate.

Chocolate-Chipotle Croutons: 

Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut 4 ounces purchased brioche bread into 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes. Place in parchment paper-lined 13x9x2-inch baking pan. Bake, uncovered, 12 minutes, stirring twice. In saucepan melt 3 tablespoons unsalted butter. Stir in 1/8 teaspoon ground chipotle chili pepper and bread cubes; stir to coat. Return to baking pan. Bake 6 minutes more, stirring once. Transfer to large mixing bowl. Gradually sprinkle 2 tablespoons grated Mexican chocolate over croutons, tossing to coat. Makes 2-1/2 cups croutons.

Beef Tenderloin in a Porcini and Chocolate Sauce

Rosa Mexicano accompanies this dish with roasted baby zucchini stuffed with a spiced pumpin-potato raisin puree.

• 3 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 6  5- to 6-ounces beef tenderloin steaks, cut about 1-inch thick
• Sea salt
• Ground black pepper
• Ground chile de arbol
• 3/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 6 dried whole chile de arbol
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic (about 18 cloves)
• 3/4 cup Cabernet Sauvignon or other dry red wine
• 1/2 cup finely grated Oaxacan chocolate or other Mexican-style chocolate (about 2 ounces)
• 3 tablespoons snipped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
• 1-1/2 teaspoons sea salt
• 3/4 teaspoon ground chile de arbol

Place mushrooms in large bowl. Add enough boiling water to cover. Set aside 30 minutes. Strain mushrooms and soaking liquid through a fine mesh sieve lined with 100% cotton cheesecloth, reserving soaking liquid. Rinse strained mushrooms; drain, and set aside.

In 12-inch skillet, heat butter and oil over medium heat until butter melts. Season steaks with sea salt, black pepper, and small amount of ground chile de arbol. Cook steaks in hot butter mixture 4 to 5 minutes or until browned, turning once. Remove steaks from skillet; set aside.

Add onion and whole chile de arbol to skillet. Cook 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add garlic; cook and stir 2 minutes more. Add mushrooms and cook 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally.

Add 1-1/2 cups of mushroom soaking liquid and wine to the mushroom mixture. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Boil gently, uncovered, about 10 minutes or until mixture is reduced to about 2 cups. Add chocolate, parsley, 1-1/2 teaspoons sea salt, and 3/4 teaspoon ground chile de arbol. Stir until well combined. If sauce is too thick or thickens upon cooking, add additional mushroom soaking liquid.

Add beef steaks back to skillet with sauce. Cook, covered, 5 to 8 minutes or until steaks are desired doneness (145°F for medium-rare or 160°F for medium). Transfer steaks to serving plates. Top each with mushroom sauce and a whole chile de arbol from sauce.

Tamal de Cambray

• 12 dried corn husks (about 8 inches long and 6 inches wide at the top)
• 1/4 cup cooking oil
• 1 small potato, peeled and chopped into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1 small plantain, peeled and chopped into 1/4-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
• 1 tablespoon raisins
• 2 roma tomatoes, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces
• 2 tablespoons capers, drained and finely chopped
• 1 Recipe Mole Sauce (below)
• 1 Recipe Masa (below)
• 2 cups chopped cooked chicken
• 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled and sliced lengthwise (12 slices total)

Soak corn husks in hot water several hours or overnight until soft.
In large skillet heat oil over medium heat. Add diced potato and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add plantain and raisins; cook and stir 5 minutes more. Add tomatoes and capers; cook and stir over medium heat until most of liquid is absorbed. Stir in the Mole Sauce; cook and stir over low heat 10 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside.

To assemble each tamale, starting about 1 inch from top edge of husk spread about 2 tablespoons of Masa into rectangle 3-inches wide and 4 inches long. Spoon about 1/4 cup of the mole mixture down center of masa. Top mole with chicken and 1 egg slice. Fold the long edge of husk over filling so it overlaps masa slightly. Roll wrapper around masa mixture. Tie ends with heavy duty kitchen string.

To steam, place tamales on rack in very large skillet or large Dutch oven. Add water to just below rack level; bring to boiling. Cover; steam over medium heat 45 to 60 minutes or until tamale pulls away from wrapper, adding more water as needed.

Masa: 
In medium bowl stir together 1 cup masa harina (corn tortilla flour) with 3/4 cup warm water; let stand 10 minutes. In small mixing bowl beat 1/4 cup shortening or lard with an electric mixer on medium speed 2 minutes or until smooth. Add whipped shortening to masa mixture and mix well by hand. Dissolve 1 teaspoon sea salt in 2 tablespoons chicken stock or broth. Add to masa mixture and stir until well combined. (Mixture should resemble a thick creamy paste.) Makes 1-1/2 cups. Use immediately or wrap in plastic wrap and cover and chill overnight.

Mole Sauce:

• 2 dried ancho peppers
• 1 dried chipotle pepper
• 1 cup challa bread cubes (about 2 ounces)
• 1/4 cup chicken stock or broth
• 1/4 cup chopped onion
• 1 Mexican cinnamon stick
• 1/2 teaspoon snipped fresh thyme
• 1/4 each teaspoon dried marjoram, crushed, and cumin seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons cooking oil
• 1/2 cup chicken stock or broth
• 1-1/2  teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 ounce Oaxacan chocolate or other Mexican chocolate, chopped

Toast dry peppers in dry small skillet over medium heat turning occasionally until aromatic, about 8 minutes. Let cool. Remove stems, seeds, and ribs from peppers (cover hands with disposable plastic gloves or plastic bags). Tear peppers into pieces; place in small bowl. Cover with hot water; soak 30 minutes to soften. Place bread cubes in small bowl. Add 1/4 cup chicken stock; set aside.

Meanwhile, in the small skillet cook onion, cinnamon stick, thyme, marjoram, cumin seeds, black pepper, and garlic in 1 tablespoon hot oil 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and discard cinnamon stick.
Drain peppers, discarding liquid. Place peppers, bread mixture, onion mixture, and 1/2 cup chicken stock in blender or food processor. Cover; blend or process until nearly smooth.

In the small skillet cook pepper mixture in remaining hot oil 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add sugar and chocolate; continue cooking over low heat until chocolate is melted. Remove from heat. Use immediately or cover and chill up to 1 week.

Pineapple and Chocolate Empanadas

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 1/2 of an 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
• 1-1/3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 Recipe each Chocolate Ganache and Pineapple Filling
• 1 egg
• 2  tablespoons water
• Turbinado (raw) sugar
• Powdered sugar; finely grated Oaxacan or Mexican chocolate; toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
• Mexican vanilla or cinnamon ice cream

In bowl beat butter and cream cheese with electric mixer on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Beat in flour, sea salt, and vanilla until mixture comes together and is no longer crumbly. Shape dough into ball; divide in half. Wrap each portion; chill 1 hour.

On floured surface roll out each dough portion to 12-inch circle about 1/8-inch thick. Using 5-inch round cutter, cut each into 6 circles, rerolling scraps. Spoon
1 heaping tablespoon Ganache in center of each of 6 circles and 1 heaping tablespoon Pineapple Filling in center of remaining circles. Beat together egg and water. Brush some egg mixture onto edges of circles; fold dough in half over filling; seal edges. Place on lightly greased baking sheet. Brush empanadas with egg mixture. Sprinkle chocolate-filled empanadas with turbinado sugar. Prick pineapple-filled empanadas with fork. Bake in 350°F oven 15 minutes or until golden.

To serve, sift powdered sugar over empanadas and sprinkle with chocolate. Sprinkle pepitas beside empanadas. Top pepitas with ice cream.

Chocolate Ganache: 
In bowl combine 2-1/2  ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped, and 2 teaspoons unsalted butter; set aside. In saucepan cook and stir 1/3 cup whipping cream over medium heat until bubbles form around edge of pan. Whisk in 4 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder, 1/4 teaspoon vanilla, and
1/8 teaspoon salt. Add 2-inch-long cinnamon stick. Pour over chocolate mixture; stir until mixture is smoooth and shiny. Remove cinnamon stick. Cover; set aside at room temperature until thickened, or cover and chill overnight. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes or until softened before using. Makes 2/3 cup.

Pineapple Filling: 
In bowl combine 4 teaspoons each dark rum and warm water. Stir in 3 tablespoons raisins. Cover; set aside. Place 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh pineapple in food processor. Cover and process until mixture is smooth (makes about 3 tablespoons).

In saucepan combine pineapple, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 2 teaspoons cornstarch. Cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Stir in raisin mixture,
3 tablespoons each toasted coconut and  toasted chopped pecans. Cover; chill for at least 1 hour. Makes 2/3 cup.